Discovering Tofino’s Magic: Whales, Wildside Eats, and Fresh-Caught Crab

If I’m to be perfectly honest, my initial experience here in Tofino started with a day that was a bit of a dud. While the mere fact of being in the breathtaking expanse of Tofino always offers a silver lining, yesterday presented a series of frustrating hurdles. The morning began with an ambitious, perhaps even naive, attempt to film a segment for Good Bite. This required rallying ten people to vacate the house, a task that proved akin to herding cats. My hope for a serene half-hour of silence, coupled with the simple luxury of a dry towel for a pre-filming shower, quickly evaporated into the misty West Coast air. When I finally managed to complete the filming around noon, a demanding phone meeting awaited. This was immediately followed by a frantic, hour-long search for lost car keys, which regrettably led to missing out on a much-anticipated trip to the beach. The afternoon then morphed into a digital nightmare, as I spent countless hours attempting to download and upload enormous video files. My Mom’s laptop, paired with an internet connection that seemed to have a personal vendetta against productivity, would time out or crash at the slightest provocation – whether I opened another tab, the computer dared to go to sleep, or even, it seemed, if I merely blinked. By 7 PM, I had barely seen the light of day, a persistent cold had settled in, unpacking its unpleasant phlegm into my head and lungs, and I was genuinely ready to row both laptops out into the vast Pacific and unceremoniously hurl them overboard. It was a stark reminder that even in paradise, the mundane frustrations of modern life can still find a way to creep in, making the contrast all the more pronounced.

Thankfully, the day was gloriously salvaged by a trip to Wildside Grill for dinner. This quintessential Tofino eatery is an open-air, take-out spot that also offers charming, rustic seating on driftwood benches. It’s nestled within a small, unassuming cluster of shops near Beaches grocery, a location affectionately referred to by locals as “Tofino Mall.” The ambiance is exactly what you’d hope for in a coastal town – laid-back, unpretentious, and utterly welcoming. Imagine tables crafted from giant wooden spools, painted a cheerful red and adorned with the marks of countless previous diners, including dented dog bowls thoughtfully placed between the trees. It’s a place where our beloved dog, Lou, could comfortably sprawl at our sandy, flip-flopped feet while we savored our meal. Wildside Grill truly embodies the spirit of casual, delicious dining that makes Tofino so unique. While Tofino boasts an impressive array of fantastic dining establishments, there’s something undeniably special about these spots that prioritize fresh, local ingredients and a relaxed, community-focused atmosphere. It’s more than just a meal; it’s an integral part of the Tofino experience, a place where memories are made as much by the surroundings as by the food itself. The fresh sea air, the sounds of conversation, and the feeling of sand between your toes all contribute to a dining experience that is both simple and profoundly satisfying, turning a challenging day into a cherished memory.

The undisputed star of our dinner, and indeed, the highlight of my entire day, was their famous Cod Club. This isn’t just any sandwich; it’s a masterpiece of textures and flavors. Nestled between two slices of perfectly toasted bread was a substantial slab of cod, meticulously crusted with panko breadcrumbs and fried to a golden, irresistible crispness. The audible crunch with every bite was pure bliss. Complementing this exquisite fish was thick, salty bacon, adding a smoky depth that perfectly balanced the delicate cod. Then came the unexpected, delightful addition of tiny, sweet rock shrimp, their tender texture contrasting beautifully with the other elements. Creamy avocado provided a rich, smooth counterpoint, while a generous slathering of tangy mayo brought all the components together. Crisp lettuce and ripe tomato added a refreshing crunch and burst of freshness, rounding out a truly spectacular culinary creation. Every single ingredient felt thoughtfully chosen and expertly prepared, resulting in a harmonious symphony of taste. I could honestly, and very happily, eat this Cod Club every single day of the week and never tire of its perfection. It was a dish that transcended mere sustenance, offering a moment of pure, unadulterated joy that effectively erased the earlier frustrations and solidified Wildside Grill’s place as a must-visit in Tofino for any food enthusiast seeking fresh, local seafood prepared with passion.

Beyond the magnificent Cod Club, we also indulged in Wildside Grill’s spicy fish tacos. These were presented as a vibrant trio, each wrapped in warm, soft corn tortillas and generously stuffed with succulent, spicy chunks of salmon. The salmon was perfectly seasoned, offering a delightful kick that awakened the palate. Alongside the fish, the tacos featured a comforting base of rice and creamy Monterey Jack cheese, which melted slightly from the warmth of the ingredients, adding a smooth, savory element. The tacos were then artfully crowned with a vibrant, fresh tomato and purple onion salsa, providing a bright, zesty contrast to the richness of the fish and cheese. A dollop of silky guacamole added another layer of creaminess and a hint of fresh earthiness, while a scattering of fresh cilantro leaves provided a fragrant, herbaceous finish. Each bite was a complex interplay of flavors and textures – the tender fish, the chewy tortilla, the crunchy salsa, and the creamy avocado. While these spicy fish tacos were undoubtedly delicious, showcasing the freshness of the local ingredients and the skill of the kitchen, they simply couldn’t quite reach the same legendary status as the Cod Club in my personal ranking. The Cod Club had set an impossibly high bar, truly trumping everything else we tried and leaving an indelible mark on my culinary memory, completely turning around my earlier grumpy mood.

Today, however, dawned with a vastly improved outlook, a complete turnaround from the previous day’s trials. The sun, a welcome and often elusive guest on the West Coast, made a glorious appearance, casting a warm, golden glow over everything. More importantly, the collective mood of our group was buoyant – no one was cranky, and the air was filled with a sense of adventure. To truly ice the cake of this perfect day, we embarked on an unforgettable journey down to Schooner Beach. The path to this pristine stretch of coastline is an experience in itself, accessible via a kilometer-long boardwalked trail that winds gracefully through a lush, vibrant rainforest. This trek is not just a means to an end; it’s an immersive sensory experience. The air is cool and fragrant, thick with the scent of damp earth, towering ancient trees, and the subtle aroma of moss. Sunlight filters through the dense canopy in dappled patterns, creating a magical, almost ethereal atmosphere. The boardwalk guides you gently through this verdant wonderland, offering glimpses of vibrant ferns, intricate fungi, and the occasional wildlife, all while the distant, rhythmic sound of the ocean slowly grows louder, pulling you towards the shore. And, for the record, contrary to popular belief, rainforests aren’t necessarily perpetually rainy; on this beautiful day, ours was bathed in sunshine, showcasing its incredible beauty in all its glory, making the journey to the beach as memorable as the destination itself.

The true highlight of our day at Schooner Beach was an experience I had long yearned for: seeing whales. After what feels like countless trips out to the rugged west coast, and only ever having witnessed fleeting, distant splashes that could have been any number of things, we were finally treated to an awe-inspiring spectacle. We watched in captivated silence as magnificent minke whales, and what we strongly suspected were either grey or humpback whales, smoothly arched their massive bodies out of the water, and even performed a sort of half-breaching maneuver just beyond the inlet. The sheer power and grace of these creatures were mesmerizing. Mike and Lou, ever the adventurers, trekked out to the furthest rocky point they could safely find, winding up a mere hundred feet from the heart of the action. They remained there, spellbound, for at least two hours, witnessing the whales’ majestic dance. Meanwhile, my sister and I waded into the surprisingly warm, waist-deep water on the sandy slip, enjoying a different, yet equally incredible, vantage point from the ocean itself. It was a profound, humbling experience, connecting us directly to the wild heart of Tofino. Of course, in a classic twist of fate, having set off down the beach with the sole intention of getting some exercise and figuring out where Mike had disappeared to, I had left my camera behind. While a part of me regretted missing the opportunity to capture such incredible moments photographically, the other part realized that sometimes, the most precious memories are those fully experienced in the present, etched into the mind’s eye rather than through a lens. The raw emotion and sheer wonder of that encounter were far more vivid than any photograph could convey, a truly magical experience that made all the previous day’s frustrations vanish into the sea spray.

For lunch, we embraced the simplicity and natural beauty of our surroundings, opting for a delightful picnic right there on the expansive sands of Schooner Beach. We had packed a vibrant and incredibly satisfying spread designed for easy enjoyment amidst the crashing waves and salty air. Our menu included a hearty black bean salsa, bursting with fresh flavors and textures, perfect for scooping up with crispy corn chips. A generous supply of ripe, creamy avocados added a luxurious, healthy element to our meal. To complement these savory treats, we brought along fresh, crusty baguettes, ideal for tearing and sharing. For a touch of natural sweetness, we had juicy, sun-ripened peaches and plums, their vibrant colors and refreshing taste providing a perfect palate cleanser. Eating on the beach is an experience unto itself – the cool sand beneath our feet, the rhythmic sound of the ocean providing a natural soundtrack, and the fresh sea breeze invigorating our senses. It’s a reminder of how simple pleasures, combined with spectacular scenery, can create truly memorable moments. This uncomplicated yet utterly fulfilling meal under the vast Tofino sky was the perfect way to refuel after our exhilarating whale-watching adventure, allowing us to fully immerse ourselves in the natural beauty of this incredible coastal paradise.

As the sun began to dip lower, painting the sky with hues of orange and purple, we arrived back home for dinner, only to be greeted by an incredible surprise. My eighteen-year-old nephew and his friend, fueled by youthful energy and a keen sense of adventure, had taken to the waters of Clayoquot Sound earlier that morning. They had paddled out in kayaks, braving the early hours to strategically drop their crab traps. Their efforts were met with resounding success, and now, we had a bucket full of fresh-caught crab! The next phase of this authentic West Coast experience involved preparing our bounty. Mike, with a mix of practiced skill and a touch of dramatic flair, set up a “killing rock” down by the water’s edge. From this makeshift station, I’m certain anyone within a hundred-mile radius could have heard the delightful, albeit slightly horrified, squealing of the kids: “Eeeeeeeewwwwwwww! That’s disgusting! EEWWWWWWW!” as Mike proceeded with the necessary, if somewhat gruesome, task. He swiftly dispatched the crabs with a precise karate-chop to their solar plexus, then expertly hacked them in half with a hatchet, flicking out the ‘icky bits’ with practiced ease. What remained was an ice cream bucket brimming with glistening, half-racks of legs – a true testament to the freshness of our dinner. We then brought our haul indoors, eager to enjoy the fruits of their labor. We steamed the crab in our largest pot, a simple but effective method: a couple of inches of water brought to a boil, then the crab steamed for just 7-8 minutes until perfectly cooked and vibrantly red. The aroma that filled the kitchen was intoxicating. We served these sweet, tender crab legs with generous lashings of melted butter, allowing its rich, golden warmth to enhance the delicate flavor of the crab meat. Accompanying this seafood feast were new potatoes, boiled until tender, then lovingly smashed with a fork and fried up in a mixture of canola oil and butter. This final step gave them irresistible crispy bits, adding a delightful textural contrast to the meal. Eating this incredible, fresh-caught crab, knowing the journey it had taken from the ocean to our plates, was a truly unforgettable and satisfying end to a day that had transformed from one of frustration into a series of unexpected Tofino triumphs.

One Year Ago: Roast Halibut, Corn on the Cob and Lemon Meringue Pie