Saskatoon Uncovered: A Culinary and Cultural Journey Through Saskatchewan’s Vibrant City

Embracing a newfound passion for exploring destinations closer to home, our recent adventure led us across the Alberta border into the heart of Saskatchewan: Saskatoon. A city I’ve always held dear but haven’t truly explored in years, it surprisingly lies just a six-hour drive away. With a scenic route that winds directly through the iconic badlands of Drumheller, it proved to be the perfect choice for a delightful long weekend escape in June. Boasting a population of approximately a quarter-million residents, Saskatoon strikes a harmonious balance – it’s neither an overwhelming metropolis nor a quaint small town. This makes it an ideal size for leisurely exploration, offering a wealth of discoveries without the frantic pace of larger urban centers. Much like many burgeoning Canadian cities and towns, Saskatoon is currently experiencing an exhilarating renaissance, brimming with exceptional culinary establishments, innovative new breweries, and an abundance of top-tier coffee shops just waiting to be savored.

Our journey began with a quaint, unexpected discovery by my companion, W: the venerable phone book. These thick, paper-bound directories, listing virtually every resident in the city, were such a fascinating novelty that he spent half the night engrossed in its pages from the comfort of our hotel room.

A Deep Dive into Saskatoon’s Flourishing Food Scene

The very next morning, our quest for local flavor led us directly to The Night Oven. From its evocative name to its charming ambiance, and most importantly, its exquisite bread, delicate pastries, and robust coffee, this place is a true gem. It’s widely celebrated for producing some of Canada’s finest artisanal bread, a testament to their unwavering dedication. The secret lies in their meticulous process: they source heritage grains – including Red Fife wheat, purple wheat, spelt, dark buckwheat, khorasan, einkorn, and rye – directly from local Saskatchewan farmers. These grains are then milled on-site, ensuring unparalleled freshness and flavor. The resulting loaves are baked to perfection in their custom-built wood-fired oven, a true labor of love that elevates bread-making to an art form. These individuals are, without exaggeration, hardcore bread artists. Conversely, their pastries offer a delightful contrast, characterized by their flaky layers and delicate textures. I particularly recall a powdered sugar-dusted creation, generously filled with cream – an ethereal hybrid, as if a croissant and a cream puff had united to produce a truly delectable offspring.

The Hollows: A Testament to Sustainable, Creative Cuisine

The Hollows quickly earned a spot among my favorite restaurants anywhere. Nestled in the historic Riversdale neighborhood, one of Saskatoon’s oldest districts, it perfectly embodies the revitalization sweeping through many inner-city areas. The restaurant occupies a space that for generations housed the beloved Chinese eatery, The Golden Dragon – a name that evokes nostalgic memories for anyone who grew up in Saskatoon and enjoyed meals there with their families. In the basement, a charmingly damp, low-ceilinged space now lined with shelves brimming with preserves, pickles, and culinary experiments of all descriptions, the current owners unearthed boxes of original Golden Dragon plates and even order pads, which they still thoughtfully incorporate into their operations. Chef-owners Christie Peters and Kyle Michael are true pioneers of sustainable, hyper-local cuisine. Their philosophy extends far beyond cooking; they cure, brine, smoke, butcher, and preserve virtually everything in-house. They even forage dandelion greens from neighbors’ yards to create the most incredibly flavorful pesto. Their commitment to sustainability is profound: they tan the hides of the animals they butcher and ingeniously use the rendered fat to craft the very soap used in their restaurants. This dedication to a full-circle approach is truly inspiring. It’s also worth noting that they are the masterminds behind Primal, another equally fantastic establishment that draws inspiration from Italian culinary traditions.

Black Fox Distillery: Craft Spirits and Farm Charm

Our visit serendipitously coincided with World Gin Day, providing the perfect excuse to spend the afternoon with Barb and John at Black Fox Distillery. This remarkable two-year-old distillery had recently achieved international acclaim, winning the prestigious Best Cask Gin award at the World Gin Awards in London, UK. It was an absolute pleasure to meet such wonderful people amidst their gorgeous farm, which was a vibrant tapestry of haskap berries, fledgling pumpkins, and fields bursting with wildflowers. Their sweet, friendly dogs added to the warm, inviting atmosphere. There’s something profoundly satisfying about connecting with the individuals who lovingly grow the ingredients and craft the products you consume, whether it’s your food or, in this delightful case, your gin.

Exploring Saskatoon’s Rich History and Indigenous Culture at Wanuskewin

A profound cultural experience awaited us at Wanuskewin Heritage Park, a revered national historic site and an awe-inspiring location situated above Opimihaw Creek and the majestic South Saskatchewan River. This area holds immense historical significance, with archaeological finds predating even the ancient Egyptian pyramids. To date, an astounding 19 pre-contact archaeological dig sites have been identified within the creek valley bottom and the coulee depressions along the valley wall, offering a tangible link to millennia of Indigenous presence. We embarked on an enlightening medicine tour, a guided walk that allowed us to explore and learn about the diverse indigenous plants and their multifaceted uses within the early Northern Plains Indigenous communities. During our tour, we also spotted beaver lodges and graceful loons, culminating in the unique experience of cooking traditional bannock over an open fire, a simple yet deeply resonant connection to ancient traditions.

Throughout the park grounds, one can observe open dig sites and other compelling evidence of ongoing archaeological exploration, providing a tangible sense of discovery and preservation. At the heart of the park lies a comprehensive cultural and interpretive center, featuring a theater, versatile meeting spaces, captivating storytelling sessions, and a collection of significant cultural artifacts. The center also houses a restaurant that proudly serves locally sourced dishes, including delicious whitefish, hearty bison stew, and generous stacks of smoky grilled bannock, often accompanied by fresh berries and whipped cream, offering a true taste of the region’s Indigenous culinary heritage.

Saskatoon’s Diverse Culinary Gems: From Asian Fusion to Craft Brews

When I previously sought recommendations for dining in Saskatoon on Facebook, the consensus was overwhelming: everyone, without exception, pointed to Odd Couple. And they were absolutely right.

This culinary treasure is owned and passionately operated by Andy Yuen, his wife Rachel, and his parents Sam and Jane. The menu at Odd Couple is a vibrant tapestry, with ingredients, dishes, and cooking techniques drawing rich inspiration from Cantonese, Vietnamese, and Japanese cuisines. Imagine indulging in thick, maple-glazed bacon and a perfectly crispy-edged fried egg, served atop a generous mound of Chinese BBQ pork and fragrant jasmine fried rice – a truly harmonious blend of flavors and textures. Another standout is their Crab Rangoon: delicate, crispy dumplings generously stuffed with succulent shrimp, sweet blue crab, and creamy cream cheese. A memorable moment occurred when Andy, learning we were visiting from Calgary, disappeared into the kitchen only to reappear with an extraordinary platter of mushrooms. These were prepared in the distinctive style of ginger beef, a dish famously invented in Calgary – thick slices of portobello mushroom fried to a perfect crisp and lavishly coated in a sweet, sticky, and gloriously gingery sauce, mirroring the beloved classic. It was, quite simply, divine.

Conveniently located directly across the street from Odd Couple is 9 Mile Legacy Brewing. Indeed, 20th Street is a fantastic hub, offering easy walkability to downtown, the picturesque riverfront, and the bustling farmers’ market, with an abundance of intriguing shops and establishments to explore.

While I may not be the biggest beer enthusiast (my husband, Mike, happily drinks for two!), I was thrilled to discover a Puddle Jumper Rhubarb Cider from Living Sky Winery. Rhubarb cider! The sheer novelty and refreshing taste were an absolute delight.

Another highlight was Sticks & Stones, the latest innovative venture from acclaimed chefs Dale MacKay, Christopher Cho, and Nathan Guggenheimer.

Their cocktail program is nothing short of amazing – truly among the best I’ve ever experienced. The menu itself is a tantalizing array of Asian-inspired delights: rich ramen, perfectly pan-fried gyoza, crispy Korean fried chicken, fluffy steamed buns generously stuffed with pork belly, succulent prawns, and savory bulgogi, alongside an impressive selection of sushi rolls. What truly sets them apart is their ingenious incorporation of regional ingredients into their dishes, such as the exquisite bison tataki and the unique YXE roll, crafted with local Diefenbaker trout and puffed Saskatchewan wild rice – a brilliant fusion of local bounty and international flair. And for dessert? Tempura bananas with peanut butter ice cream and strawberry jam, a playful yet utterly delicious finish!

A fascinating anecdote speaks to the deeply personal touch at Sticks & Stones: Chef Cho’s parents, hailing from Cape Verde, an archipelago off the northwest coast of Africa, visited for a month. During their stay, they generously shared their traditional kimchi-making expertise with the kitchen crew, preparing enough to supply the restaurant for several months before returning home. This infusion of family tradition adds an incredible layer of authenticity and flavor to their offerings.

We hadn’t yet experienced their original establishment, Ayden Kitchen & Bar, so we rectified this by enjoying a superb dinner there before attending the exhilarating Saskatchewan Rush lacrosse finals. Who knew I’d fall in love with watching lacrosse? It’s a fast-paced, full-contact sport, akin to hockey but with significantly more scoring and incredibly enthusiastic fans, especially in Saskatoon! Our favorite dish at Ayden was a plate of exquisite perogies, beautifully adorned with leeks, chives, delicate pearl onions, and earthy hen-of-the-woods mushrooms. That particular masterpiece is pictured on the left; to be honest, I can’t recall all the precise details of the equally stunning dish on the right, but both were undeniably beautiful and delicious.

Baba’s Perogies: A Taste of Tradition and Home

However, as a true connoisseur of nostalgia and delectable pillows of dough generously stuffed with potatoes and cheese, perhaps the most profoundly exciting and heartwarming part of our entire trip was the opportunity to meet the dedicated perogy-pinching ladies at Baba’s. For an incredible 30 years, these artisans have been meticulously crafting perogies and cabbage rolls entirely by hand, perfecting their craft with each fold and pinch. They are, without a doubt, real perogy pros, and observing their skill was nothing short of impressive. Witnessing the massive sheets of soft, pliable dough being expertly filled and then delicately pinched into perfectly formed perogies was a truly mesmerizing display of culinary artistry and tradition.

Baba’s holds another unique distinction: it is home to the world’s only perogy drive-thru! This ingenious setup is even spacious enough to accommodate a tractor pulling through, ensuring that local farmers and visitors alike can quickly grab a hearty platter of perogies, savory sausage, classic cabbage rolls, and the absolutely essential side of creamy mushroom sauce. Eating at Baba’s felt like a truly Canadian experience, deepening my connection to the country’s rich culinary tapestry. Unfortunately, they didn’t have any cabbage rolls available on the day of our visit – the talented woman who typically makes them best was away on vacation. However, I seized the opportunity to ask a myriad of questions and diligently took notes, hoping to replicate their perfection. Their cabbage rolls are renowned for being flawless – each roll tightly tucked, encased in a seemingly paper-thin cabbage leaf exterior. Clearly, I’ll need a few decades of practice to achieve such mastery!

Final Thoughts on Saskatoon’s Endless Charms

I know this exploration only scratches the surface of what Saskatoon has to offer, and I’m sure I’ve missed some incredible places. I constantly hear news of new openings and unfortunate closures, and I diligently try to keep track. My phone is filled with notes about people and establishments I’ve heard about and wish to visit. Saskatoon is a city that continues to evolve and surprise, a dynamic hub of culture, history, and unparalleled culinary creativity. I would genuinely love to hear your favorite spots to add to my ever-growing list for our next visit, ensuring that we continue to uncover every hidden gem this vibrant Saskatchewan city has to offer.